Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Another AMGEN Tour of California, 2014 A.D.

The Ritchey posing at the entry of the AMGEN campus in Thousand Oaks
Isn't it ironic that a company that makes EPO would sponsor the US' most important bicycle stage race? See, Judy did receive EPO after her chemo treatments, to boost her red blood cells. And then there were (and are) those who misuse this drug that helps so many to gain an athletic advantage. Welcome to the 2014 edition of the AMGEN Tour of California.

The race start in downtown Sacramento
For the second time, after working the race in 2012, I was out in California for 10 days to be part of the official crew of the 2014 edition. This is not a post about what I did at the race in my official function but rather a short (or maybe longish—don't know yet) synopsis of my time on the West Coast.
Before the start of Stage 1: Brad Wiggins, left, former Tour de France Winner,
and former World Champion Mark Cavendish
Two other good-looking chaps: My friend Lee was here
with the women's team that he manages
The 2014 ATOC started in Sacramento, where I had spent time twice. I still look happily back on my relationship with Jenny, from Reno, and our Z-4 trip through this area on the way to the Vineman 70.3 and then back to Lake Tahoe. My, how time flies. This time around, Sacramento was my home base for three nights. I had to be here for the Team Managers' Meeting, and the first two stages took place in and around California's capital city. What a pretty setting that send-off in front of the capitol was!
Sacramento has some amazing architecture ...
... beaches ...
... and rail stuff (don't forget the American Rail Museum!)
When you read the industry publications you learn about the California bicycle market and how it is booming. Well, let me tell you something: I've been in a few places and seen a lot, but CA bike infrastructure and participation is not matched by anything I've seen anywhere else (OK, maybe Central Park in New York). Sacramento has an extensive bike trail system along the American and Sacramento rivers, all the way up to Folsom (where one of the stages finished). I rode all of those 40+ miles along the river, and of course, there are connectors, detours, etc. that add more miles to the system. Before the official start of the race on Sunday (or was it Saturday? Hell, I don't know—it is just one large mess of dates, days, nights, days, racers, and team doctors) I got a chance to take the Ritchey for some very nice rides in that area. I could not believe the hundreds of cyclists who are using the trail system along the rivers, plus the joggers, walkers, and occasional homeless folks. If you want to talk about quality of life, add a bike trail of this type and see whether you can't attract people. Lubbock, do you hear?
Wild turkeys just off the American River bike trail in Sacramento
Riding along the American River
For this assignment I had a sidekick, Hélène, from Montreal, Québec, whom I have known for a number of years. We shared the car, the hotels (but not the rooms), and lots of responsibilities. We bitched at each other exactly 0% of the time, had dinner together 90% of all evenings, shared 100% of our breakfasts, and sat in a car for more than 1,000 miles (or about 29 hours at an average speed of 38 mph), listening to my eclectic mix of iPod selections, all of which she loved. They may call Hélène the Bulldog (yes, that's really one of her nicknames), but she is as sweet as a puppy. Just don't piss her off.
Hélène and I share a well-deserved post-race bottle of Zin
This year's ATOC started in  Sacramento, had stage finishes in places such as Folsom, Mt. Diablo, and Santa Barbara (and several more, of course), and finally ended up just a few miles from AMGEN's headquarters in Thousand Oaks. This race is an extraordinary production, and it is eclipsed only by some of the granddaddies of stage races such as the Tour de France, the Giro d'Italia, the Vuelta a Espana, and a handful of other classics such as the Tour de Suisse and maybe the Dauphiné. I didn't check the UCI's race categorizations, so long-time readers of Velo or Cycling News will know so much more...
The ascent to Mt. Diablo
Phil and Paul do the TV commentary, but Dave and Brad whip the crowd into a
frenzy in those few minutes before a stage finish
In its decade-or-so of existence, ATOC has developed into an event that is no longer a national event—no sirree Bob, this is now a bona fide international Battle of the Best. Look at the roster, and you'll see that the very best cyclists are atracted to this race.

And I was assigned to it.

What you need to keep in mind is that a bike race is simply that: It's just a bike race! But then, a Broadway production is nothing but that, and neither is the Superbowl. There's a lot of glitz on the front, and a lot less glitter on the backside of the production. The only difference may be that the backside of the curtain is accessible to almost everyone. What other entertainment venues do you know of where you have the fans come within literal inches of the performers? It's a wonderful sport, and I am thankful to be a (meaningful) part of it.
Yes, they paid me to drive along the Big Sur highway, ahead of the race caravan
Hélène decided that she will come back with her husband to vacation here
I won't bore you with a blow-by-blow account of what Hélène and I did all week long. I couldn't do so anyway, lest you and I and everybody else who had heard had to be killed, like in the movies. Just let me tell you, that we put in more hours than you would believe. One of the challenges of ATOC is that California is a huge state, and if you really want to make it a state-wide race, there will have to be transfers between stages. I drove about 1,075 miles, at an average speed of 37 miles, of almost 30 actual hours behind the wheel. Mind you, that's not the work we did. We had one day when we were for 17 hours on the clock (not that we have to punch it), and the day before it had been 16 hours. At the end of the race we both were worn out and ready to go home.
The elephant seals at Piedras Blancas beach, near Santa Barbara
I love the zoom on this little Olympus SH-50!
One of two adjacent beaches, with a total of 15,000 elephant seals

What are the rewards, you ask? Well, we get a whopping 105 euro a day, and our travel and accommodations are paid for. But if you do the math, that's way below minimum wage, so the questions is still on the table. Speaking for both  Hélène and myself, there is definitely the love for the sport and the desire to give back to it. For some of us there's the undeniable rush of rubbing shoulders with the world's best cyclists, the dudes you read about in Velo and the guys you see on TV. And then there's the travel.
The view from our hotel at Pismo Beach
California living, Pismo Beach

To drive down the Big Sur coastal highway between Monterey and Cambria and not have to spend one red cent of your own, now, that's what I call a beni. Or to be at the top of Mt. Diablo or in Santa Barbara and stand right there, yes, on the line, when the world's best climber or the best sprinter in the business comes by, and you have that unbelievable 360-degree view, well, I think I know some folks who'd sign up for free to do just that. And let's not forget those 105 euro a day....
Driving toward the stage finish at Mountain High ski resort

My old friends, the Joshua trees, whom I once mixed up with redwoods
As so often, I had taken the Ritchey along. It was our last trip with manual shifting. In the next few days, I'm going to convert my trusty steed to electronic Di2. Hell, it's just money. I would have liked to have ridden more than the measly 131 miles that I somehow squeezed in over the past 10 days, but that's all I got. You can't ride when the stage finishes at 4:15 p.m, your job is done at 5:55 p.m., and you still have a 90-minute transfer to the hotel. Or maybe you force yourself to ride 10 miles, during which you never get into the groove but you marvel at the McMansions and take in the beautiful smell of honeysuckle and you think, shit, I'm a lucky dude. 
Sunday afternoon molasses on the 101 coming from Ventura and trying to go to LA
And here the Ritchey balked: No way we were going to go down only to come back up!

California is an amazing state, and we got to see so much of it. There are so many beautiful areas, and one thinks, wow, if only I could live here. And then you check into real estate prices, and you look at the ever-present insane traffic, and the realization sets in that visiting is maybe not such a bad thing, after all. I hope that in future years I will again get the opportunity to come out here for this premier bike race on the Americas, because I had a ball. But I won't move there, I don't think.
He took the first and the last stage: Mark Cavendish is the sprinter to beat at the moment
And now I am back in Lubbock, where the temperature hit 98 degrees today, similar to what it was like during four or five stages out in California. I'm back in my $100,000 house which in California would go for a million. As long as I get gigs like this, I won't complain.

Nice to receive the upgraded seat a day ahead of boarding ...
 Signing off until the next trip,


Jürgen

Monday, May 5, 2014

Back in Texas—but not for long

300+ racers and spectators at the High School finals near Troy
Just when I thought that I would never, ever experience a tailwind again on a trip out of town, Friday I was blown all the way from Lubbock to Temple by a 15-mile-breeze that boosted gas mileage and morale. You may not think often about the wind and its direction (or speed), but if you were to drive a Miata with the roof down and head for 300+ miles into a 30 mph head- and crosswind, you'd change your perception quickly. I swear, so far this year, on every trip to a race I faced strong unfavorable winds, regardless of whether I was heading out of town to the race or rolling back in. It was like a curse: If Jürgen is on the road, let's ruin his gas mileage and travel time.
Checking-in racers at the Ft. Davis Hammerfest
The winds had been quite different a week ago when I drove to Ft. Davis, in the Trans Pecos region of far West Texas. After my unscheduled trip to Berlin I had barely enough time (literally less than 12 hours) to sleep and store my stuff at home before leaving to what used to be Texas' premier road stage race. You may remember that for two years (2011 and 2012) the event had to be stopped after one or two stages because of wildfires. Then, in 2013, nobody wanted to organize another Hammerfest. But for 2014, the race was resurrected, and there were no fires. Yeah! Unfortunately, only about 100 racers showed up, and they were treated to nice, albeit windy, weather. As Chief Judge I had my hands full working on the results, but everything finally worked out so that I could battle the winds and the dust in the Permian Basin all the way back home.
The Chief Judge's office in the Davis Mountains—finish line on Heartbreak Hill
The next four days in Lubbock went by fast. There was laundry to be done, the bike to be ridden, and items to be put on eBay. Then, on Wednesday evening, Angela learned that her aunt had unexpectedly died (and her uncle had just been diagnosed with what appears to be terminal cancer), so I tried to be supportive and took her to the airport for her flight to Milwaukee in the wee hours on Friday morning. A quick bike ride later, and I was back in the car to the TX High School Mountain Bike League finals close to Temple. I tell you, it ain't easy to be retired!
The chief with happy high schoolers
The race took place on a small private ranch near Troy, which is about 15 miles from Temple. It was a special treat to stay with Martha and Alan for two nights and hang out with my good friends. Alan and I engaged in some serious beer drinking and even took a swim in the pool. On Sunday, he volunteered at the race as part of the medical team, and I think he came away with a really good understanding of why I enjoy those high school races so much.
Typical roadkill on a Texas mountain bike trail
The last of the bluebonnets
High school league sleeping accommodations, with teddy bear
It's dry, even in south-central Texas
Almost 50 high school girls raced this weekend—a new record
Checking results
So here I am, once again in the Abilene Hilton Garden Inn, with another few hours of driving back to Lubbock ahead of me. Coming back from the race, yesterday, I had a tailwind again! What is the world coming to? I have four days in Lubbock before I head out to California for 10 days at the AMGEN Tour of California, an assignment that I am really looking forward to. Lots of things to do before then, so I better get going. Thanks for reading.

Jürgen

Friday, April 18, 2014

RIP—Günther Heise, 24/12/1931 – 18/4/2014




This Good Friday morning, around 7:30 a.m. Berlin time, my Dad took his last breath and peacefully slid away.

You may remember that I had seen him only two weeks ago, during my last trip to Germany. I had returned to the US just last Wednesday and was en route home from a weekend high school mountain bike race (950 miles of driving plus the race in three days!) on Monday morning when word reached me that Dad had been hospitalized and was not doing well at all. With my brother in Vietnam for a 3-week vacation (and at the time of my notification not reachable yet) I immediately booked a flight to Berlin and left Lubbock on Tuesday morning. When I arrived in Berlin at noon on Wednesday, my nephew, Dennis, picked me up and we went straight to the hospital.

Things had progressed quickly. My Dad had not been feeling well for weeks, and, quite frankly, we thought that a lifetime of heavy smoking had finally caught up with the 82-year-old and that cancer was ravaging him. So, really, none of this came as a surprise to us. ("Us" in our case is a very small family: My brother, Bux; his two children, Dennis [21] and Jannick [15]; his ex-wife Gabi, who happens to work as an ICU nurse in the hospital where my Dad was stationed and who had taken care of cleaning chores at my Dad's once a week or so; his other ex-wife, Andrea; and a literal handful of cousins, aunt, and uncle from my deceased mom's side. That's it.)

We had no idea how bad things were with my Paps even if we knew he wasn't doing well. He was not much of a complainer, and he didn't let on when things were wrong. Still, when I had said good-bye two weeks ago I had been wondering how many more times I might get to visit him in the "smoker's den," as Judy and I had called the yellowed apartment in the middle of Berlin's Turkish quarter. Apparently things became so difficult and uncomfortable for him that he called an ambulance on Sunday to be taken to the hospital. (I had two brief telephone conversations on Friday and Saturday with him during which he sounded totally worn out.) Gabi was on-site soon after, and he made clear to the physicians that, should things turn south, he did not want to be kept alive with artificial means and treatments other than to provide comfort; his living will stated the same. According to Gabi, he was lucid and appeared somehow relieved, even though the initial diagnosis indicated that some medication would take care of whatever ailed him. I am sure he knew that the end was closing in rapidly. I hope that, once my time comes, I can show the same dignity and courage that he displayed.

Monday saw my Dad's condition spiraling downward. The doctors found out that his heart function was greatly diminished and that he had a large amount of fluid in his lungs and abdomen; what had seemed as possibly fixable with some medication became an increasingly hopeless situation, especially in light of my dad's explicit wishes to not utilize high-tech procedures to keep him alive to avoid becoming somebody requiring 24-hour care. His liver and kidneys started to fail. The call to me was made.

On Tuesday, his younger grandchild, Jannick, visited my Dad after his brother, Dennis, had picked him up at an out-of-town Easter vacation camp for special needs kids. Dad's condition had already deteriorated markedly, but he still had lucid spells and obviously was glad to see Jannick. Gabi and Dennis started taking turns staying with Dad, as much as possible, while I was sitting in airplanes to make it back in time. I did, but only to see him in a more-or-less comatose state. There was never an obvious sign that he recognized me or my presence, which is of no consequence since we will never know. For those of us who are left over, the temptation is great to assume that our presence is calming and soothing. We believe what we want to believe, and hope often tops intellect.

With the exception of a short 3-hour break on Thursday afternoon, during which I made personal contact with a funeral home and rode for an hour to clear my mind and body, I spent the entire time with my Dad. The hospital bent the rules a little bit and provided me with a bed so that I could rest some. The nurses were friendly and emphatic, the way most nurses are—what a blessing on mankind they are! The doctors were mostly absent since, let's face it, there was nothing to be done. I had sent my good friend Alan the results of my Dad's blood work, and he ventured an estimate of 24 to 72 hours. I read his e-mail around 6:15 a.m. this morning. At 7:30, Dad was dead.

So, who was this man? Physically, we were quite similar, even though I am taller and have always been a bit more muscular—my Mom always made fun of his sticks in the ass legs! But look at pictures of his face and mine at similar stages in our lives, and the similarity is striking. He was a good husband and father. His dedication to my mother, whom he nursed for ten years after she fell sick with MS, was 100%, to the point of being self-destructive. He always had the best for his family at heart. He was the type of provider that only the post-war years could produce. (Both he and my Mom were born in Berlin and lived their formative years during the final stages of WW II.) He was a curious person, and he instilled in me that same sense of curiosity and adventure that lies at least partially at the root of my urge for travel and, eventually, having emigrated.

I remember well a defining moment in my life that, in retrospect, seems like a turning point in my Dad's life, too. It was sometime in the late '70s, after I had already left for college in Trier but before my exit to the USA. Most of his life, my Dad had minor heart problems, and on that particular afternoon he had experienced some medical problem that had necessitated a house visit by Dr. Lehmann, our longtime Hausarzt. Apparently, things weren't too acute since the doc just told my Dad to rest up. When I went to see my Dad, who, quite curiously, looked shrunken and much smaller than usual, and check on him, he turned to me with an ashen face and sad eyes and let out a sigh that has stayed with me since: "I had wanted to do so much!" The resignation in his voice turned these words into something like a mantra for me, reminding me to not just want to do but to actually DO. I have been doing, and that may be one of my Dad's greatest legacies, even if he never intended it.

Dad was a good guy. Like everybody, he had his flaws. As a family father, he could be quite authoritarian, to the point of intimidating. Generally, he had an even temper, but on very rare occasions, he would erupt in an unpredictable manner, and it was not a good thing to be in the direct line of fire. He was a man of rigid principles, sometimes to a fault. I started to recognize these various traits once I left the house, and, sometimes seeing the same in myself, I have been trying to be cognizant and avert the worst damage. Those of you who know me will know what I am talking about. We are, after all, our parents' children.

His biggest fault, though, is a personal one that may have prevented him from having had an even more fulfilled life than I believe he must have had: My Dad had a very hard time communicating his feelings to and with others. Even though he was very, very soft on the inside—easily brought to teary eyes—some events in his childhood made it impossible for him to truly confide his feelings, aspirations, fears, hopes, and demons. There was some barrier, something that over time had become so large that he couldn't overcome it. I am sure others have seen the same in their parents. I do not know how often over all of those years and many, many visits I tried to break through to that inner Dad that I know existed. It was like an encapsulated tumor, and the slow and cruel death of my mother made it even more of a foreign object. Still, I thought that Judy's death might, just maybe, open him up toward his elder son. (I do not know how open he may have been with my brother, but I believe that certain doors stayed closed, there, too.) My father's resistance to share emotion and allow others to see inside him has certainly left its mark on me, someone who is gregarious, full of love for life, optimism, and the need to share with others. I tried to crack the nut, didn't succeed, and am OK with it—yet, I can still wish he had shared this inner self with me.

I am writing all of this a few hours after Dad's death, less than 100 meters away from his apartment. You see, right on the corner of Sonnenallee and Erkstrasse/Wildenbruchstrasse, there is this small Eckkneipe, a corner pub called Zum Tiger. How often did my dad and I joke about going there to have Sunday Frühschoppen, a time when German men escape their wives and have a pint or two before lunch? Of course, we never went. There were no women to escape from.... So, when I was slowly trudging back to the apartment after finalizing everything in the hospital, I saw Zum Tiger. And then I stepped in—Good Friday and all—and decided to have a pint or two and write all of this.

Rest in Peace, Dad.

Jürgen

 

Monday, April 7, 2014

One of Europe's top-10 to visit: Salzburg

Panoramic shot of Salzburg
That's an ambitious title, I know. But after spending an absolutely delightful long weekend in the city of Mozart I think I need to spread the word about this charming place. It ranks right up there with the likes of Paris, Prague, and Budapest and should not be missed if you happen to be in central Europe.
On the Autobahn, heading from München to Salzburg
Driving east on the A8, parallel with the Alps, must be one of the most spectacular autobahn drives in Germany
How 'bout it?
Salzburg is notorious for bad weather. This part of Austria (as well as the immediate German region around Bad Reichenhall and Berchtesgaden) is called the Salzkammergut for its longtime production of salt. And, let's face it, everybody knows that it always rains in the Salzkammergut. So it was a special treat to visit Salzburg (literally, Saltcastle) in pure sunshine with spring-like temperatures. But, as they say: YMMV when you visit and it rains and the lustre is a bit less vivid.
One of old town's shopping streets
Lines were long at the local Bosna place, a Balkan-inspired sausage stand
Bosna: A grilled dual-sausage with all kinds of delectables wrapped in a bun
Long before Sabine and I had decided to change our relationship we had decided on this visit and had booked an apartment (and I had made all my flight arrangements to go to Europe). Life's too short to let amour interfere with travel. So, after arriving in Munich last week we took the Skoda on the less-than-two-hour trip on the autobahn to the very south-eastern corner of Germany. What a drive along the northern edge of the Alps! The visibility was fantastic, and I was gushing about how green everything was. Coming from Lubbock that's not too difficult, but even Sabine mentioned that it was unusually green for this time of the year. The main reason is that there's been hardly any snow to suffocate the grass, yet there's been enough moisture to green up everything. Simply put, it's gorgeous and lifts the spirit after the depressing wind and dirt in West Texas.
Mozart is everywhere!
Should have gotten some of that to take care of back pain, impotence, and rotting teeth
Nice way to end the day, eh? The fortification is on the right, in the background.
Salzburg lies in a fairly flat area, built up by two small rivers, the Saalach and the Salzach, with the latter coming straight from the mountains and having the tell-tale greenish-milky tint of a mountain stream. What is now the middle of town, immediately off the old medieval center, is an interesting rock formation that was simply screaming to be fortified by some adventurous duke. At the highest point, the fortification, Festung Hohensalzburg, reigns supreme over the city. Our apartment was the entire top floor of a house attached to this sheer rock, with the back wall being unfinished rock and the bathroom hewn into the mountain and simply finished off nicely (actually, very nicely—we had splurged thanks to a 50% off offer from AirBnB). Let me go on the record: This was the most unusual apartment I have ever stayed in!
The bathroom: built into the rock wall
Our apartment was the top six windows of the dark-brownish building
Our apartment was located mere steps away from Salzburg's old city center. We parked the car and never touched it again until we had to head back to Munich. If you go to Salzburg, get accommodations close to old town and walk everywhere. And while you're planning, consider—nah, it's a no-brainer—buying a Salzburg Card, which gives you free entry to most must-sees as well as free public transport (not that you will need it if you're close to the city center). The card costs 31 euro per person for 48 hours, and the time starts ticking when you first use it. (One caveat: Everything that is "free" with the card is free only once, so you can't take the castle tram up and down on two consecutive days. The fine print doesn't exactly explain this.)
Spring-like weather only added to the charm
Festung Hohensalzburg in its nighttime attire ...
... and in daytime glory with Old Town in front
Sights there are many. We didn't get to see everything that the card offered, but at the same time, we got the feeling that we sampled a good cross-section of attractions. On top of the list, of course, must be all the Mozart stuff. After all, the economic impact of the name "Mozart" is estimated at several billion euro a year. There is the house in which Amadé (yes, that was Amadeus' actual name) was born, and there’s the quite stately mansion where his family moved when he was still a child prodigy. But it is probably more impressive to visit the elaborate Konferenz Saal of the Residenz where the six-year-old performed for the then-ruler of the region, the Prinz Erzbischoff. Among all the gold and brocade and wooden flooring you can almost hear the boy wonder play the fiddle, as they would call it in Texas. So it was a violin, and he didn’t play the two-step, but that’s about it for differences, n’est ce pas? Of course, most young fiddle players don’t go on to compose their first opera and symphony before puberty hits in earnest.
Young Amadé played here as a 6-year-old
Just around the corner from the location of Mozart’s formative years is the Schloss Mirabelle, where I saw my first Heckentheater. I had been familiar with the term but never seen one: It’s a tiny stage, located in the gardens of a chateau, where actors enter the stage from a dozen or so small walk-ways that have been cut into the hedges (Hecke) that form the backdrop of the stage. Sabine made a dramatic entry to show how actors would seemingly appear from nowhere, to only disappear into nothingness. The grounds of the Mirabelle were at their spring-like best, and lots of couples took the opportunity to profess their wedding vows.
Sabine making her Thespian debut in the Heckentheater
Magnolias in full bloom, just outside the Mozart residence
Schloss Mirabelle may not be as grand as Versailles or Sanssousi....
... but it is intimate and quite exquisite
An old cemetery, which supposedly features the family grave of the Mozarts but which certainly is not marked or even on the tour-circuit radar, provided beautiful gems for those who speak and read German. One inscription offered as its eulogy, “ He lived only to save for his children.” Another one emphasized that such-and-such was the recipient of this-and-that plaque, with its accompanying chain! Lots of gems like that.


One of the several highlights was a guided tour of the Festspielhaus, the site of the annual plays that are a huge part of Salzburg’s international draw. As a matter of fact, the city features not only one major theater but something like four or five, or maybe even more—I couldn’t keep up with all the different names of the various venues. We got to look behind the curtain, and our thoroughly entertaining guide connected one anecdote with the next. One of the stages, a former riding school, was built into the same rock wall that our apartment shared. Initially an open-air venue, it had been furnished with a retractable roof only recently.
The 1 1/2-hour tour of the various stages of the Festspiel area was super-informative
Of course, the central visual focal point of Salzburg has to be the castle that towers over the city. It’s one of the largest such fortifications in Europe, and it was never taken under serious siege or, heaven forbid, conquered. Gees, had I been a marauding duke and had seen the place, I would have looked at the sky, started to whistle, and opined, "Oh, lets; not bother about this one—I know a really lovely place down the road that we can conquer”—and would have made a 180-degree turn. In 1800, the locals, for whatever reason, simply handed the Festung Hohensalzburg to Monsieur Napoleon, without a fight or anything in return—they probably felt magnanimous or something.
Inside Festung Hohensalzburg
Panoramic view to the south
Nothing like one of those comfy, 24-hour-a-day chastity belts!
The Festung was never seriously besieged or, worse, captured
The castle, with its first iterations going back to the 14th century, is simply formidable: Its white, impenetrable walls and its location on top of a steeply rising hillock make it appear larger than it is. It simply dominates the countryside, and any fool trying to take it would have been a big fool indeed. Nowadays it’s just hordes of tourists that conquer the place, either walking up the steep ramparts or taking the 100+ year-old little funicular that was built to supply the barracks of the Austrian army (to which the castle had degenerated) with staples. The view from the top is spectacular—toward the south and southwest stretch the high Alps with lots and lots of snow, while toward the north and west the land softens up and continues in wide vistas of fertile plains. Heaven indeed, especially with the weather we had.
Not-so-unsuspecting tourists sitting in as the archbishop's drinking buddies
Ach, to be der Herr Erzbischoff....
Our last tourist destination was Schloss Hellbrunn, where one of the early archbishops (those guys were much more secular than they are now, or at least openly so!) decided to build a little play-pen for himself and his cronies. Hellbrunn is known for its trick fountains, with which his highness entertained his guests and himself. Take for example the "Roman table," where Markus Sittikus enjoyed gathering his buddies and making them drunk. Then, when the time was ripe, he'd give the signal to turn on the out-of-the-seats jacuzzi jets, and the poor dolts would have their skivvies all wet yet weren't allowed to get up until his archbishopness decided that the fun was over. Our (Mexican!!! in Austria!!!) tour guide had just as much fun spraying us unsuspecting tourists via hidden valves and jets as his highness did a few centuries ago, and everybody giggled and laughed, just as the nobility had done way back then. Some things never change.
It is a bit naughty, isn't it?
Hellbrunn's Prunksaal
Markus Sittikus, who probably played more than he prayed during the 1612 to 1619 period of his reign as archbishop
So, that was Salzburg. Meanwhile I have been to Berlin to see my dad for a few days and then back to Freising where I have been riding the bike on daily excursions. To sum things up: Salzburg is definitely worth a visit when you're in the neighborhood, and it's worth a visit, I think, even if you're outside of the 'hood and need to detour by a few hundred miles. Don't miss this one!

Jürgen