Quite frankly, I have been dreading the task of writing this blogpost for the past two days, ever since arriving in Singapore. Why? Just after an hour or two on the ground it became clear to me that to write a coherent account of three-and-a-half days in such an amazing place would be near impossible, especially considering the extremely limited time before making landfall in another exotic location within less than 48 hours from the time that I started to write this.
It all had started out calm and civilized enough, last Friday morning (after returning Thursday from Cologne—goodness, that feels like a month ago, if not longer!) when Sabine took me to the Munich airport for my 8:40 a.m. departure for the first of three flights. I had barely enough time in MUC's Global Lounge for a final pretzel and a coffee before Qatar flight 060 took off for Doha. It was a smooth flight, with initial views of the Alps and an on-screen reminder which direction Mecca lay, at any given time, just in case it was prayer time.
Late in the afternoon we arrived in Doha. As I had experienced a year-and-a-half ago, Qatar's staff are so superior to US airlines' flight attendants that it is not really possible to compare them. Fly one of the mid-Eastern airlines (especially in biz) and you will feel like a sheik.
I had timed my flights in a way that I was going to have a couple or three hours transiting in Doha to make full use of their amazing lounges. If you'd like to read a full account of these luxurious oases in the middle of a huge airport, go back to my
December 10, 2024 blog entry that lets you live out your wildest airport lounge fantasies. Somehow I managed to resist the duty free temptation pictured in white below.
The second Qatar flight of the day, QR 844, was the longer one, at close to eight hours, and I made good use of my Q-Suite accommodations. Pajamas, food and drink choices rivalling a decent restaurant, turn-down service, and all the peace, comfort, and quiet you could think of at 30,000 feet. Holy Moses, all this for $173.50 in taxes and fees and a paltry 75,000 miles, less than what applying for a new AA Citi credit card will earn. Playing the game has hardly ever been more rewarding.
Kuala Lumpur, in Malaysia, came by dawn, and I had another lounge experience (actually, two of their Golden Lounge offerings in two different terminals). Malaysia Airlines' luxury offerings were a step below Qatar's but still on par with AA's business lounges, with more opulent food offerings but somewhat tired architecture and surroundings. Or maybe I just started to get tired myself after 24 hours of non-stop travel.
The final hop (on a Malaysia Airways-operated flight) to Singapore took only 50 minutes flying time. Nevertheless, the flight attendants (there were three upfront to take care of the eight Business Class pax!) offered pre-flight beverages and even an inflight meal: There was a choice between an egg sandwich and a hot meal of four chicken
satay skewers. I couldn't believe it! No alcoholic beverages on this flight, BTW.
We landed on-time in Singapore's Changi International Airport. I had done my homework and had completed my immigration papers on-line; and I had queried AI to get a full run-down on how to get from my gate to the metro station, pay for my ticket, locate my train, make my transfer, and get off at the right stop. The Singapore MRT is intuitive and easy to navigate; all you need is a credit or debit card (I had made sure to release my German plastic for all the countries I was going to visit) and know how to tap an illuminated contact point at the check-in gate. That's it. Your card will be charged about $2.40 by the next day. I exited the MRT at Jalan Besar and, lucky-lucky, headed immediately in the correct direction. Twelve minutes later, I stood in front of the Holiday Inn Express Singapore Serangoon. Mission accomplished.
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| First impressions from my first 30 minutes of walking in Singapore |
It's nice to check into a hotel and be greeted by friendly staff who appear genuinely delighted that you have arrived. Of course, it could all be a show, but then, why can't they teach realistic theater to American desk clerks? It is almost embarrassing to be fawned over when you paid exactly zero pennies for those four nights that you'll stay. According to my overall calculations for this entire trip, every hotel night would have cost me just a few pennies less than $175 per night had I booked the same rooms with a credit card; as is, the thirteen nights in total are completely free, allowing me to put my resources into the sweet things in life, which aren't exactly cheap here.
Less than 24 hours before my arrival in SIN I had been contacted by one of Judy's far-removed cousins, David. Back in the fall, when I had been in Grand Junction, I had had an enjoyable lunch with his parents, Toni and David (Sr.), who, in turn, had mentioned to him my plans to travel to Singapore sometime in the winter. Good, indeed, psychic timing, David, sending me a message a day before my arrival! And before we knew it, he and his two teenage girls and I had dinner in one of Singapore's tourist spots less than four hours after my arrival. Maybe you start getting an idea of how jam-packed my past few days have been!
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David had suggested to meet on the Singapore river, close to one of the MRT stations right below Fort Canning Hill, a place where soon-to-be-weds like to have their official pictures taken on a Saturday afternoon. I had a ball just walking to the meeting point, and from there it all turned into yet another memorable evening of cultivating a new friendship, engaging in deep conversation, enjoying good food and knocking back a pint or two, and mostly sharing of memories and making new ones. David and I immediately connected (we had met once before, at least 20 years ago), and his young daughters were engaged in our conversation and interested in what we (all of us!) talked about until they finally split to do girls stuff. It was, after all, Saturday night. David and I settled in at Brewerkz, my 623rd brewpub in now 29 countries. Good beer, but not stellar. Overpriced, oh yeah baby! But nothing is cheap in Singapore.
Speaking of beers: For a city of 6 million inhabitants, Singapore really is not a hotbed of brew culture, despite everything they want to tell you. But there are a few places that I can recommend. Brewerkz is solid but fairly commercial in that there are numerous locations around town. The beer is fresh, clean, and tasty—nothing to knock off your socks, but not offensive in the least. My experience at Lion Brewing was somewhat different, but maybe that was because they had run out of their IPA, my measuring tool. Leaves LeVeL33, the world's highest brewery (in terms of floors up from the ground, exactly 33 in Tower One of the Marina Bay Financial Center), and Upward Taproom.
Obviously, LeVeL33 oozes money—a dedicated elevator from ground level to the 33rd floor? I had been told by Edison Wong, the proprietor of Upward Taproom, that the IPA was mediocre, and so it was. But the $16 (US) that the pint will cost you buys you one of the most amazing views that you will ever have in your beer drinking career. I had a prime (outdoor balcony) spot overlooking the entire downtown bay, including a full view of the Marina Bay Sands towers. If you get a chance, you simply MUST go there, even if the beer won't register on your own personal Richter scale.
Upward Taproom is the brainchild of 45-year-old Edison Wong who immigrated about 20 years ago from China and wanted to put his connections to the then-budding Chinese craft beer scene to good use. Almost all of the beers he serves are either of Chinese origin or have been created in collaboration with North Park Brewery, from Albany, NY. The Cloud 9 hazy IPA definitely has a place in the top 10 IPAs I have ever tasted, but the X-Raying Jasper (priced at a solid $27 a pint!) knocked the ball totally out of the park! Its a hazy double IPA that rivals my number one beer ever, Russian River's Pliny the Elder. Yes,
that good!
Overall, my impression of Singapore has been overwhelmingly positive. This relatively young country (it declared independence in 1965 from Malaysia) has worked itself up on the international economic ladder through smart policies and, I am sure, hard work. It now has the world's second-busiest port, and it has developed into a hub for not only Asian but global air travel. All this happened starting from a third-world background. I asked David all kind of questions regarding numerous policies, the role of government, the value that is being put on the population, and so many other issues that make a country livable. One of Singapore's biggest problems must undoubtedly be its tiny geographic footprint: Its territory (of which already 25% has been reclaimed from the sea, and more is coming at a rapid pace) is half the size of Rhode Island, or about the size of New York City. So, the implications for especially population growth are obvious.
The number of high-rise apartment buildings (generally averaging 50 to 55 stories high), in large, numbered blocks, is staggering. Yet, looking from above, as I did one afternoon from the CapitaSpings tower—among the five highest buildings in Singapore at 920 feet or right at 280 meters—one immediately notices the historic sections of town, such as Chinatown or Little India. Here, city block after city block is characterized by 100-year-old, three-story buildings. Googling for answers I found out that such areas are protected and there are no plans to create more vertical space by tearing them down; future development is based on ever higher apartment complexes while keeping the old neighborhoods intact and protected.
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| Chinatown, easily recognizable in the foreground |
Speaking of CapitaSpings: Without prior free reservations (weeks in advance) one can pay a $10 (SGD, in US $8) fee to access the amazing gardens between floors 18 and 21 before hurtling to the top and enjoying the panoramic views from the 101st floor viewing area. And the admittance ticket even buys you a soft drink up there. If you find yourself in Singapore, this one is an absolutely no-miss stop, and that at a bargain price.
One afternoon, I found myself in the Marina Bay area, home to the Gardens by the Bay attractions that include a tree-top skyway, a Jurassic Park experience zone, ginormous illuminated trees, and huge indoor and outdoor habitats that attract thousands of daily visitors. Anchoring the area is the Marina Bay Sands where nightly rates start around $1,600 but quickly rise to $3,000—but that also includes access to the impossibly located infinity pool that overlooks the downtown area from what looks like a cruise liner perched atop three 680-foot tall towers. I don't want to lose your attention here, but reading the
Wikipedia entry on this architectural miracle is nothing but fascinating.
Singapore may be a huge city, full of concrete and asphalt, but once you look closer it does not lack green spaces, after all. Well-designed pedestrian paths and cycle trails crisscross neighborhoods, allowing people to get to stores, buses, and MRT stations. Almost all sidewalks have at-grade interfaces at all intersections, allowing those in wheelchairs or women with perambulators (not to mention rogue cyclists who spot a quicker way to progress than on the roads) to stay barrier-free. Today, I followed such natural trails all the way from my neighborhood to the immense Botanical Gardens and then back down to the harbor, along what is called the Singapore River.
There are more parks than one would assume, with all those buildings everywhere. But the city has made a very deliberate effort to increase sustainability and livability for the citizens. I read about a campaign that is trying to plant one million new trees between 2020 and 2030, one of many such environmental initiatives.
The Botanical Gardens, which were established back in 1859, cover an area about the quarter size of Central Park—not exactly chicken shit when you think about how tiny the country is. The diversity of plant life is amazing, and I was surprised how many people were visiting the gardens on a Tuesday. About a decade ago, the UNESCO declared the gardens as a World Heritage Site, quite probably swayed by the one-of-a-kind orchid section that the place houses.
As I mentioned, I got around using the metro, which works like any modern subway and appears rather efficient. A ride with the MRT costs around $2.50; this fare also includes a small one-time daily credit card access fee, something like about 50 cents. I have ridden quite a few metros worldwide that are cheaper, but as I said, prices here are not low. The share-bike system (there are at least two major ones but quite likely more) I used,
Anywheel, was a comparative bargain: For a 7-day unlimited free ride pass (as long as each ride was completed within 30 minutes) I paid $5.50, or 80 cents a day. The app was a bit on the clunky side, and at times it was a little difficult to find designated parking areas for the dock-less bikes, but overall the experience was quitepositive. The bikes are mostly in good repair, with some of them being a newer generation equipped with disc-brakes as well as smartphone holders, which facilitates navigating by map. None of them are geared (a three-speed like the Paris
Vélib makes small inclines and tailwind straightaways a little easier to manage), and there are no e-bike options. I rode a total of 24 miles, and I had no issues with passing cars or the like, despite having to deal with having to ride on the wrong side of the road.
In places like Little India and Chinatown I stuck to walking. These neighborhoods are so interesting, so foreign. There are small ethnic enclaves everywhere, and if you crave international food, you can get everything (including of course KFC and Mickey D, but neither is
food). Even though it may be called Little India, you will find churches, mosques, and Tao temples; the same goes for Chinatown. It is an amazing amalgam of cultures and religions, all apparently peacefully cohabitating. If New York is one big melting pot, I don't know what to call Singapore.
On my walk through Little India, I entered a temple and witnessed a pooja that was emotionally riveting and simply joyful. Hundreds of people were in attendance, and there was this spirit of harmony that pervaded everything.
I checked out some numbers to get an idea of the financial make-up of this society. On the one hand, there is a very stark divide between the haves and the have-nots—but, and here comes the kicker---- almost nobody is so poor that staying alive is almost impossible. Singapore has developed a social security net that will take care of the worst off, no questions asked. David and I talked about this for a while, but for an outsider it is pretty much impossible to digest all this information. I did not see any beggars in the streets, and I did not see a single homeless person. The individuals who in our country suffer from unfortunate circumstances will be taken care of in Singapore. Healthcare, retirement, housing subsidies, and a whole plethora of programs that elevate the population are in place. It'd be interesting to study how such a tiny country facing all those negative odds managed to go from Third World status to being a member of the Club of the Rich, all in just a bit more than half a century.
The wealth is evident wherever you look: late-model SUVs (oh, so many of them Chinese! USA, fucking wake up to what is in the pipeline for us!), glistening luxury cars from Western boutique brands such as Rolls, Mercedes/AMG, and fat BMWs (apart from a few late-model Corvettes nothing from US shores, just the Euros, who of course are partially owned by the Chines), huge malls that are fancier than what you will find in most American cities, homes in gated communities, expensive restaurants, bars, and watering holes, multi-billion skyscrapers that are illuminated at night like Times Square. Whoa! Stop swooning: Another half kilometer, and you enter one of those areas where one 50-story apartment building takes away the daylight from the next one, and the immediate reaction will be: OMG, I couldn't live with 7,500 other people in one apartment complex. But do you see graffiti? Trash? Laundry hanging from the windows? Signs of abuse and decay? What a complex environment.
Singapore is a place of rules. Many of you have heard of the illegality to even bring gum in your luggage to Singapore, or worse, actually chewing it. Caning is still a form of punishment on the books for various infractions (but NOT for chewing gum, as David corrected me). The fines for various transgressions (littering, smoking, vaping, consuming alcohol at certain times, or possessing and bringing into a hotel or a subway cart a durian, a sweet and sought-after fruit that has, unfortunately, an extremely pungent smell. I did smell them in the markets but didn't get to taste one because I used my credit card for every monetary transaction, and a few pennies for a taster in the market were not covered.) Smoking in the Holiday Inn Express incurred a $300 fine. Possession of a durian costs you $300 as well. One morning I woke up dreaming I had a
durian in my room. It turned out to be my left armpit. As it turns out, miraculously my photos of the actual
durian fruit evaporated and you'll be left to your own armpits.
But fear not: Here are a few pics of dishes that I enjoyed and survived (although the cockles gave me a mild reminder that some sea creatures demand some penance the morning after. Imodium helps.
If you can manage to stay away from being caned, you will enjoy Singapore: There are no stray cats or dogs, (free) public restrooms are everywhere (and they're sparkling clean), and drivers honk only in the most unusual circumstances. You may be a bit put off by Asians' interpretation of what personal body space is, and forget about being polite when it comes to leaving a metro wagon or entering a hotel lift. Rejoice in the undeniably delectable meat-show that happens every evening on the harbor promenade, with hordes of fit-looking, semi-naked young men and women blissfully jogging while clutching smartphones and being plugged into earbuds; enjoy, because so many of the older generation have hard faces that show a lifetime of work and struggle and betray no
joie vivre.
Three days in Singapore do not do justice to this multi-faceted country with such old roots yet so much young history. I think it would be immensely interesting to spend a month or so in this city, getting to know the vibe more and understanding more of how it can tick so well.
David had suggested to meet on the Singapore river, close to one of the MRT stations right below Fort Canning Hill, a place where soon-to-be-weds like to have their official pictures taken on a Saturday afternoon. I had a ball just walking to the meeting point, and from there it all turned into yet another memorable evening of cultivating a new friendship, engaging in deep conversation, enjoying good food and knocking back a pint or two, and mostly sharing of memories and making new ones. David and I immediately connected (we had met once before, at least 20 years ago), and his young daughters were engaged in our conversation and interested in what we (all of us!) talked about until they finally split to do girls stuff. It was, after all, Saturday night. David and I settled in at Brewerkz, my 623rd brewpub in now 29 countries. Good beer, but not stellar. Overpriced, oh yeah baby! But nothing is cheap in Singapore.
Overall, my impression of Singapore has been overwhelmingly positive. This relatively young country (it declared independence in 1965 from Malaysia) has worked itself up on the international economic ladder through smart policies and, I am sure, hard work. It now has the world's second-busiest port, and it has developed into a hub for not only Asian but global air travel. All this happened starting from a third-world background. I asked David all kind of questions regarding numerous policies, the role of government, the value that is being put on the population, and so many other issues that make a country livable. One of Singapore's biggest problems must undoubtedly be its tiny geographic footprint: Its territory (of which already 25% has been reclaimed from the sea, and more is coming at a rapid pace) is half the size of Rhode Island, or about the size of New York City. So, the implications for especially population growth are obvious.
Speaking of CapitaSpings: Without prior free reservations (weeks in advance) one can pay a $10 (SGD, in US $8) fee to access the amazing gardens between floors 18 and 21 before hurtling to the top and enjoying the panoramic views from the 101st floor viewing area. And the admittance ticket even buys you a soft drink up there. If you find yourself in Singapore, this one is an absolutely no-miss stop, and that at a bargain price.
Singapore may be a huge city, full of concrete and asphalt, but once you look closer it does not lack green spaces, after all. Well-designed pedestrian paths and cycle trails crisscross neighborhoods, allowing people to get to stores, buses, and MRT stations. Almost all sidewalks have at-grade interfaces at all intersections, allowing those in wheelchairs or women with perambulators (not to mention rogue cyclists who spot a quicker way to progress than on the roads) to stay barrier-free. Today, I followed such natural trails all the way from my neighborhood to the immense Botanical Gardens and then back down to the harbor, along what is called the Singapore River.
There are more parks than one would assume, with all those buildings everywhere. But the city has made a very deliberate effort to increase sustainability and livability for the citizens. I read about a campaign that is trying to plant one million new trees between 2020 and 2030, one of many such environmental initiatives.
