Culture in München

Two full days into my short European sojourn—which I am splitting between Bavaria and Sicily—I've already tanked more culture that in the past half year at home. How about two jazz concerts plus an avantgarde digital art exhibit, not to mention walking through one of Germany's most beautiful cities?

I had decided on this quick trip to Europe when I happened to find—back in June—a very reasonably priced Business Class mileage redemption from LBB to MUC and back, at 65,000 miles each way and less than $150 in total fees. Had I flown a day earlier or later, the mileage requirement would have jumped by more than 250,000 total!

Approaching the MUC airport outside of Freising

When I got closer to the departure date, I had asked, almost begged, Sabine (whom I had last seen for a few days in the spring) to find something "cultural" to do. Honestly, after spending so much time at mountain bike races I had started to feel starved for different stimuli. When I arrived about a week ago, the weather in Bavaria was beautiful so that my first three days in Freising were marked by cool, yet sunny, conditions—perfect to stroll through the town that is celebrating its 1,300th anniversary. That in itself counts for culture!

Food counts for culture, too 🤣

While Sabine had secured tickets for a jazz concert at the Unterfahrt jazz club in Munich for Friday night, she hadn't really planned anything in particular for Thursday. However, she remembered seeing a flier for a jam session at the Furtner, a formerly active brewery in need of a facelift that still attracts a mostly young crowd that socializes with beers in hand. The Furtner has a small room that's separate from the bar area, and when we arrived shortly after 8 p.m. (after dinner at my favorite Greek place, the Irodion), maybe 50 or so jazz fans were listening to a trio of young musicians. They played the remainder of their first set, and after a break to refill the beers the jam session started. It soon became clear that the young piano player was the gifted one, while the bass player showed some pretty rough edges.

Have piano, will travel

The pianist, Alexander Wittges, has been written up by some newspapers as the "Freising Piano Man." He is just 18, thanked his dad (who was working the soundboard) for his unwavering support, and is about to study music at Juilliard. In his spare time he rides his cargo bike with an upright piano mounted around town and plays for passers-by to make a few pennies. The kid is good. Really good! Three hours later, fewer than half a dozen of us were left over, witnessing this extraordinary evening of young talent exploring and finding new heights. Wow.

On Friday we took the train to Munich and enjoyed some of the sights in the city center. The Marienplatz in front of the imposing Rathaus (city hall) as well as the adjacent Viktualienmarkt were teeming with locals and tourists alike, with many enjoying a bite to eat or nursing a stein of beer. For me, coming from the noisy US, it was so odd to hear just the soft hum of the voices—none of the loud and screeching tonalities that in the States greet us in public places and restaurants alike. People here are quiet and private, yet they're having a solidly good time.

Once the shadows grew longer, we headed for the Kunsthalle to spend time at the exhibition titled Digital By Nature: The Art of Miguel Chevalier. Well, since the official description of this showing did not manage to prepare me for the onslaught of visual stimuli I am not going to try to describe here what we saw, because it would be inadequate. Let me just say, most of the works of art were simply beautiful for their colors and organic interplay with the visitor. It was so different from anything either one of us had ever seen, and I can only recommend to make an attempt to see an exhibit by this amazing artist.

For dinner we went nextdoor from the Kunsthalle, to the Vapiano, which has been our traditional pizza place since my first forays to Munich years ago. I'm not exactly sure what the attraction of this modern chain-restaurant is for us, and so I have to assume that there is a certain sentimentality that overcomes us when we order a pinsa diavola, pick some of the rosemary from the small planter on the table and add it to the pie, and share a bottle of wine. Nothing fancy, just good memories coming back and new ones being made.

Properly stuffed we took the tram to the Unterfahrt, which is a true jazz cellar in a retired underground train station. Once again it was a classical jazz trio performance, only much more polished and groomed than the night before. To see, no, listen to legendary drummer Omar Hakim in such an intimate setting was a real treat. But as smooth as the performance was, it lacked the sheer life of the jam session of those young musicians in Freising. For me, emotion and passion will always trump technical brilliance.

Waiting for the (almost) last train home

We spent most of Saturday in a workshop organized by the co-op that Sabine hopes will help her secure a permanent home for the final third of her life. For me, it was interesting to see what the hurdles are for a project such as this to come to fruition, and at least I will be able to understand a little more of the upcoming challenges, discussions, and decisions that she and the group of other co-op members will be facing.

Poll of workshop participants regarding anticipated mobility needs. Interesting.

On Sunday morning, the predicted rain had set in and my three-and-a-half days on the ground in Freising came to a conclusion. It was time to leave for the sunshine of Sicily.

Jürgen