Good bedfellows: NAEC and USAC—2025 National Enduro Championships in Idaho

It's an interesting life I lead. One day I am at sea level in the sweltering heat of the tropics, and a few days later I am riding North America's longest single-stage gondola to an elevation of 5,700 feet, swaddled into my Patagonia nano-puff hoodie. Sandwiched in between were two 100°+ F days in Lubbock and four flights altogether. It's crazy, but I'm certainly not complaining.

About six weeks ago, USA Cycling contacted me to check on my ability to act as Chief Referee for this year's National Enduro Championships, and my schedule allowed me to accept the assignment. Breaking from tradition, USAC this year was not the actual organizer of the race (as in the past at, for example, Mammoth, Winterpark, and Snowshoe, all of which had various Enduro issues). Instead, the race was farmed out to a well-established race series, the North American Enduro Championship, or NAEC. I had been in contact with the owners and co-race directors of this series, Tony and Melina, and the vibes ahead of the event had been excellent.

When I arrived on Wednesday (yes, two days after my delayed return from Guanacaste), Tony picked me up from the airport in Spokane, WA, and together we drove to the venue in Kellogg, ID. During the hour-long drive he filled me in on his series and how the symbiotic relationship between NAEC and USAC had come to life and how this championship was going to be significantly different, at least in the way of its administration and execution. No wonder that instead of a crew of six, seven, or more commissaires I was going to be able to rely on only my old friend Vicki from Alabama as well as two freshly minted officials who also happen to work for the NAEC. Their referee shirts were still in the mail.... You get the drift.

Local officials Josh (l) and Sean, as well as Vicki and Justin, who represented USAC
but was not a crew member

Let me be blunt: Tony and Melina are running an incredibly successful series, and the best thing that USAC, from my perspective, could have ever done was exactly what they did do: piggy-back onto NAEC. I've been around the block often enough to know when not to interfere with a race director who knows much better than I do how to run a successful event, and so it was easy to step back, keep my eyes and ears open, occasionally consult with Tony or Melina on certain issues, and otherwise look as if I had things under control without having to lift my fingers too much.

Melina and Sean, my Finish Judge

OK, that might be simplifying things a little bit too much, but in all honesty, this was one of the easiest assignments I have ever had with USAC. I had ample time to ride the gondola up the mountain to some of the starts and finishes (the Pro riders had to complete altogether seven distinct timed stages over the course of two days, and the amateurs had five total stages, also distributed over Saturday and Sunday) and enjoy the views from the top. That was especially true on Wednesday afternoon, after my arrival, and Thursday, with the weather slowly turning from deep blue skies and nothing but sunshine to high-cloud activity the closer we got to our official practice on Friday, when drizzle and then rain moved into the mountains.

Xerophyllum tenax, or bear grass

One of our stages on Saturday started at the highest point of Silver Mountain Resort, just below Kellogg Peak at 6,297 feet. It was the day of the summer solstice, but you wouldn't have known it up there: Fog and mist were blowing up the mountain side, and rime ice was forming horizontally on the windward-facing trees. Believe me, I was glad that I was not the starter up there!

This particular race in this particular location has been in existence for ten years, and it appears that it attracts moisture like a flame attracts moths. But the racers didn't seem to mind. They are a grimy, happy crowd who love epic conditions, and there's much story swapping while waiting in line for the gondola ride to the top or at the start line, or simply hanging out at the base once finished, PBR, Rainier, or an IPA in hand. Nope, this is not antiseptic track racing or prima donnas hunched over on skinny-tired road bikes. This is mountain biking pure, where self reliance, broken bike parts, and lots of bruises are de rigeur.

Vicki and I were joined by my long-time friend Justin, who was not part of the officiating crew but rather represented USA Cycling and its mountain bike program. Justin is the expert on anything that's somehow related to qualifications for nationals, the selection process for the World's team, and or how to fix problems with an online USAC account. Having Justin at a race means that we don't look like totally idiots because as "normal" commissaires we just don't have his daily exposure to the mountain bike world's problems.

Justin and Swissy, who is always with him when on assignments

Despite really not working much we spent most of our days at the venue from 7:00 a.m. to about 9:00 p.m. But the days went by quickly with answering questions, rubbing shoulders with event sponsors, high-fiving athletes who recognized me from previous championships, and in general doing a lot of good-natured PR work on behalf of USAC, which doesn't necessarily have the best reputation in the Enduro world. Without wanting to brag, I think we did a really good job at that. I heard not one single negative comment all weekend, and we had only two minor disciplinary issues that turned out to be unfounded duds. With a total of 483 race starts over the two days, that's pretty much unheard of.

The start area with a minute to go. Enduro is, let's say, laid back!

Racers slowly rolling out of town on their opening transition stage

The race director, Tony, addressing the rapt audience during the pre-race meeting.
Notice the safely tucked-away can of Rainier.

Good thing alcohol comes not only in the form of Rainier but also in
spray bottles to fix booboos on the oversized checks!

NAEC rules say that temps have to be below freezing
before Tevas and Birkenstocks are retired ...

All newly minted 2025 US Enduro champions, in all age groups and categories, with the happy race directors happily in the middle

So, to wrap it all up and get this posted before I make it back late tonight, the 2025 USAC Enduro National Championships were one solid success. From the time that I was picked up at the airport, throughout the five days I was on the ground, and my final good-bye this morning, it was the perfect race experience for me, and I can't thank Tony, Melina, their crew, and of course Vicki and Justin enough for such positive impressions.

Jürgen

Guanacaste, Costa Rica's north-western province

My one-week stay in Playa Hermosa, about 40 minutes due west of Liberia and its international airport, LIR, is slowly coming to a close. Quite frankly, this trip has been a bit disappointing on various levels, but it still was enjoyable if for nothing else than some quality quiet time to read a good book and listen to the waves.

The biggest downer has been the weather, as a massive storm system has parked clouds and rain all across Costa Rica's Pacific coast. Not much one can do about that, of course, but it does put a damper on things. During my first few days there were some periods of sun, with beautiful beach vistas befitting the tourist brochures. But for the past three days it has been extremely cloudy, with quite a bit of rain, and that is not what a beach vacation needs.

Of course, before coming down here I knew that I was going to face tough riding conditions as Guanacaste is anything but flat. No, there are no mountains of the caliber that one finds around the capital, San José, but Playa Hermosa is surrounded by ridges that rise 200 to 300 meters, and the roads are extremely steep. How steep? While riding, I saw figures of up to 15%, at which point I got off to walk and push, and the computer would no longer display a gradient. Add to that the stifling humidity that the rains have only increased, and it becomes obvious that a 69-year-old is not going to gobble up the miles the way he did as a youngster.

The resort road outside of my unit,
so steep that I didn't dare to get on the bike when taking off.

How tough was the riding? Well, I went out on three days (luckily and with a little foresight avoiding big deluges), and those rides were 11, 15, and 17 miles long, with average speeds somewhere in the 6 to 8 mph range. And yes, I did walk several inclines because I felt as if my head was just about to explode had I tried to stay on the bike for another five belabored revolutions of the cranks.

These pics show Playa Hermosa and the Condovac Resort,
with the steep road leading up to my unit, as marked.

Still, in hindsight these 43 miles took me through pretty countryside, to beautiful beaches, and on a few gravel roads through some thick vegetation. On my final ride, which took me to the small town of Sardinal, I felt that I really was in an original Central American hamlet, once again, instead of just a touristy beach community where one doesn't even find a proper zocalo or a few tiny stores and restaurants. I am so glad that I went on that ride, even if those 17 miles pretty much ate my lunch.

My stay at the Club & Hotel Condovac La Costa in Hermosa Beach was OK but certainly not something to put on a 10 Best list. I had used RCI timeshare points for a one-bedroom apartment in the only available resort (via RCI) in Costa Rica with the option to forego the all-inclusive package. Well, I had read the reviews and after a week I can only say I am glad that I opted against full board. (Breakfast was mandatory and cost $89 for the seven days; the fruit was fresh, and if one can live with the exact same daily fare of omelet, gallo pinto [rice and beans], and fried bananas, then the $13 daily cost is bearable.) 

White-throated magpie-jays were a constant
threat to plates of food

Reading the reviews had mentally prepared me to fight for a decent room, and I honestly can't complain as my persistence paid off. Unit number 106 had a small, semi-private porch that gave me a beautiful view of the bay; very few condos offer this view, so that's why I won't give this resort just one-and-a-half stars or maybe even two but a whopping two-and-a-half! But otherwise, the place was 1960s material, clean, sure, but oh-so-tired. In other words, it was typical RCI fare, but traveling by myself I don't get as pissed as I would otherwise. There was hot water, the bed turned out to be moderately comfortable, and the lack of wi-fi was not a major issue as I was able to stay connected via Google Fi. Add daily maid service and proper air conditioning, and the sour grapes stay within reason.

The non-adjustable showerhead and its manly stream!

Happy Hour with Kool-Aid rum punches

The resort is built into the northern hillside of Playa Hermosa bay, and it has STEEP roads! So steep that I never had the guts to start riding downhill from my unit but instead pushed the bike 75 meters to the general reception and pool area and took an alternate road, slightly less steep, to the seashore. But the resort does run a continuous shuttle for its guests, and once in a while, after going down to the beach at night for dinner, I took it.

During my final ride I climbed the ridge on the opposite (southern) side of the bay and had a beautiful view not only of Condovac Resort but also a new resort that is being carved out of the hillside just to the west. Just keep that in mind if you come down here in a year or two and want to ride your bike!

Playa Hermosa is really not much of a village. Lots of expensive houses are scattered around the hillsides, quite likely belonging to rich expats or well-to-do ticos, but apart from three small grocery stores (two of them belonging to the local chain Super Luperon) and a few lawyer offices, beauty shops, and kitschy boutiques there is nothing of interest. Quite a let-down. It would have been fun to sit in the town square (if there were one) and watch the world go by.

As I said, I didn't buy into the almost $700 all-inclusive package after reading the reviews that mentioned the listless, unimaginative slop that is being served for lunch and dinner. If the selection of breakfast items is any indication, then those reviews are probably on to something. But I had to eat, and reviewers had mentioned the various beachside restaurants that are within walking distance of the resort. One night I had mariscos a la plancha, another night a medium pizza, then a grilled fish, and on a fourth night a blob of mashed potatoes with a few spoonful of marinated octopus (a so-called causa), and each meal was in the $26 to $30 range, two of them with a beer, the others with just a glass of water. Whew! And mind you, these very pedestrian places were all pretty much deserted since this is the low season. So, keep this in mind if you should consider visiting Costa Rica. 

10,000 colones is $20, and the prices do not include
an additional 13% tax and 10% service fee

Really? $29 for this?

The same goes for groceries in the Super Luperon. The fine assortment of goodies below cost me a whopping $37—after all I needed to have a small bite for lunch and a beer or a rum punch for Happy Hour (I did bring some Tropical Punch Kool-Aid, thank goodness!). I conducted a little bit of research, and what I found is startling: The median individual income in Costa Rica is about $3,500 a month while in Lubbock it is about $2,750. Now, take that with a dose of skepticism because I really didn't spend several hours on researching this but rather used AI for some comparisons. But we all know how cheap living in Lubbock is, and the same cannot be said for Playa Hermosa or Costa Rica in general, a country seen as the by far most expensive in all of Central America.

But who cares, right? With a bit of sunshine, the beaches are beautiful, even if the sand is not bleach-white but on the brownish side. The water is blue, the sailboats and yachts add to the atmosphere, and there aren't many people around to share this with. So, I definitely enjoyed that.

I'd assume that most people don't come to Costa Rica just for beaches but rather for the rainforests, the yoga retreats, the waterfalls, the fauna and flora. I get that. I have been coming down here since back in 1979, I think, when I rode from Texas to the Panama Canal. Even then the country was already way too gringo for me, and it hasn't changed any (unless you can find a little place as I did back in Dember of 2022 in Puntarenas). I've come down here for numerous races since then, as well as private trips, but I have to say that Pura Vida seems more and more hackneyed and there are other countries south of our border that may give you more of an authentic Latino experience, if that's what you are after. For gringos it appears to be a safe and easy-to-navigate place (everybody speaks English, and often restaurants display prices first in dollars and then in colones), but I think I enjoy some of the other countries more (Mexico and Guatemala come to mind).

The Condovac's infinity pool ...

... and its inexplicable Ferris wheel!

So, all that said, even a not-totally-satisfying trip is better than raking leaves at home, and I am glad that I was able to use miles to fly here for more or less free and even use up some of those fairly useless RCI points. And I once again got to refresh my memory what inclines of 12% or even 15% feel like!

Mango tree

Butterflies, drinking from a puddle

Lockable Dumpsters

After a week in the Condovac I checked out this morning and called an Uber ("only" $37 for the 25-minute ride to the LIR airport, still half the cost of any other type of transfer I had been able to find). Halfway through the ride I received a text message from American that my afternoon flight back to the US had been cancelled (apparently because of weather in Texas), and I will now fly out of Liberia tomorrow morning at 8:00 a.m. I quickly checked hotel options and asked the Uber driver to drop me off at the airport Hilton Garden Inn, less than a mile from LIR. Good thing I have an annual travel insurance policy with Allianz, which will take care of accommodations and incidentals. Let's keep our fingers crossed that I'm actually going to make it home by tomorrow afternoon as my trip to Enduro Nationals in Idaho is coming up on Wednesday morning. Ai, Chihuahua!

Jürgen